Toro blades are normally assembled/tightened with impact drivers making it nearly impossible for the do-it-yourselfer to loosen the blade. If you don’t have an impact driver you will have to take it to someone who does.
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You can get them loosened with a little ingenuity. The Toro 22" mower user manual advises you to tip the mower completely on its side (air filter side up), and use a two-by-four board to chock the blade along the bottom to keep it from turning. Place your right foot on the board to keep it steady, and use a rachet to loosen the nut (standard counterclockwise).
Of course, arm strength alone might not be enough to get that sucker loose (it sure wasn’t enough for me). So the trick is to step on the rachet handle with your left foot (keeping your right foot on the board), and apply pressure with your foot to loosen the nut. Depending on your weight, you might have to almost stand on the rachet handle (be extra careful, because you don’t want that blade whipping around), but it WILL loosen.
When you put your new/newly-sharpened blade on, switch feet, switch board position, and step on the rachet handle to tighten the blade nut (standard clockwise). Don’t be afraid of putting some muscle into it — the manual says the blade nut is "very difficult to overtighten." Exercise caution, and always keep the board chock in place.
This is a general mower answer….. Drain gas, disconnect spark plug, lay it on side, place 2×4 under blade ( blade needs to be at 9.15 or 3. 45 ) spray nut with WD40 wait 15 mins. Find large wrench that will fit nut, attempt to remove nut, apply tourniquet to bleeding hand , go get stitches in hand.
Except for the bleeding part the first answer is basically right. Unless you can elevate the mower onto sawhorses or something that will allow you to work underneath it easily you’ll want to drain the gas and oil. That way when you tip it on the side you wont’ make a mess externally or internally. Then there’s a single nut holding on the blade. Block the mower blade with a 2×4 as it will want to spin as you loosen the nut. Loosen the nut being careful to note the position and orientation of any washers. Reinstallation is the reverse. You might want to change the oil, air filter and plug at this time. It makes it easy to remember when you did what maintenance last…
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Toro blades are normally assembled/tightened with impact drivers making it nearly impossible for the do-it-yourselfer to loosen the blade. If you don’t have an impact driver you will have to take it to someone who does.
——-
You can get them loosened with a little ingenuity. The Toro 22" mower user manual advises you to tip the mower completely on its side (air filter side up), and use a two-by-four board to chock the blade along the bottom to keep it from turning. Place your right foot on the board to keep it steady, and use a rachet to loosen the nut (standard counterclockwise).
Of course, arm strength alone might not be enough to get that sucker loose (it sure wasn’t enough for me). So the trick is to step on the rachet handle with your left foot (keeping your right foot on the board), and apply pressure with your foot to loosen the nut. Depending on your weight, you might have to almost stand on the rachet handle (be extra careful, because you don’t want that blade whipping around), but it WILL loosen.
When you put your new/newly-sharpened blade on, switch feet, switch board position, and step on the rachet handle to tighten the blade nut (standard clockwise). Don’t be afraid of putting some muscle into it — the manual says the blade nut is "very difficult to overtighten." Exercise caution, and always keep the board chock in place.
This is a general mower answer….. Drain gas, disconnect spark plug, lay it on side, place 2×4 under blade ( blade needs to be at 9.15 or 3. 45 ) spray nut with WD40 wait 15 mins. Find large wrench that will fit nut, attempt to remove nut, apply tourniquet to bleeding hand , go get stitches in hand.
Except for the bleeding part the first answer is basically right. Unless you can elevate the mower onto sawhorses or something that will allow you to work underneath it easily you’ll want to drain the gas and oil. That way when you tip it on the side you wont’ make a mess externally or internally. Then there’s a single nut holding on the blade. Block the mower blade with a 2×4 as it will want to spin as you loosen the nut. Loosen the nut being careful to note the position and orientation of any washers. Reinstallation is the reverse. You might want to change the oil, air filter and plug at this time. It makes it easy to remember when you did what maintenance last…